some of our friends

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the last few days

We are home. I distinctly feel as though I did not get to stay in any place long enough to really, really know the place! Our last few days in Zurich were rainy ones. We were able to see another (smaller) art museum and walk along the lake, to have a fabulous dinner at Maggie's house, to do a bit more shopping and going for some walks, to have a luncheon with a very few of Big Ma's friends and another family dinner at Big Ma's apartment, and to briefly visit the atelier of Pam - a cousin of the Gut family and a dear friend of Marlyse. Pam works with clay and shares space with a few other women, two of whom were present. Also, we had time for a few more baked goods!
Our flight home seemed so easy - I watched 3 movies! We left in the afternoon and with the time difference, it was as though we only flew for 2 hours although to us it was way past midnight when we got to our apartment. Everything was as we left it.
Today we spent getting our mail, food shopping, unpacking, etc. Doing business! I also need time to reflect on everything. I certainly loved all the things we did on our trip. Zurich is another story - I am sure it will become a home away from home for us. New relationships were forged and some old ones were strengthened, I think. Even with how much I loved it all, it was so wonderful to come back to New England. The weather is wonderful and everything smells so fresh. It has been so long since I was here in the spring.
So I will post at least one more time related to this vacation in a day or two. I am considering continuing blogging any way, just as a place to comment on life! We will see! Also, I realize I have not posted ANY pictures - this was NOT my strength! I still will have to get those on here!

hello from Zurich

Perhaps I must start thinking of Zurich as a 'home away from home'. We are here living for a week with Big Ma, about a 10-minute (or less) drive from Marlyse and her husband Ludy. Their apartments overlook Lake Zurich with the mountains on the opposite side. The weather has been mild and some rain yesterday and today but the first two days it was perfectly sunny. As you fly into this area, it is very green with farms everywhere and gorgeous mountains and lakes. Zurich is a very busy city with beautiful architecture housing very modern businesses and people. On our first full day we walked around the old city which is closed to car traffic after a certain hour in the morning. Later Ludy drove us around (trying to find a shop I wanted to see) and showed us the part of the city he grew up in - the old Jewish section. Yesterday we went to see a special exhibit at the main art museum of the (mostly impressionist) masters. The most important thing here in Zurich is family. Our first evening was spent at a local restaurant where Marlyse and Ludy's son Ruben joined us for dinner. As it turns out, only last night Zurich began not allowing smoking in restaurants - that was the only unpleasant thing we had to experience, really. (And Phil already seems to have incurred a speeding ticket...).
The second night was Shabbat and we ate at Marlyse's house with Ludy's son Greggie and his wife Olga present. Immediately I felt warm and welcomed and part of the family. Yesterday, after the art museum, we found Marlyse's high school yearbook and spent some time looking at that and getting caught up on people we all knew 'back then'. This makes it easy to feel part of the family as I have some common history with Marlyse.
Last night Ludy threw a party at a tiny neighborhood Italian restaurant (we had it to ourselves) with his and Marlyse's friends (contemporaries). Also, Ruben's girlfriend Nicole was there so I felt I have met the basic family now! Everyone spoke English quite well and so I got to have some excellent conversations. At one point my entire table waited to hear what I thought about Obama as president. The Swiss seem to really like him and have great hopes for the U.S. Again, as everywhere else I have been, Americans are actually liked. I think that compared to people from other countries, they find us easy and open and friendly without airs. It is so funny to me that I used to think everything European or from other places was more exotic or special than American things but what I see is that America has given so much to the world! Things in Zurich are wonderful and special - I am loving the food especially the cheese (naturally) and the art and the cleanliness and the ease of public access - but I do not feel compelled to give up American things! And in the final look, what is really important are the experiences I am having making new friends and laughing with people, sharing stories and finding common ground. I feel so fortunate to have Marlyse, Ludy, Ruben, Greggie, Olga, Nicole, not to exclude Big Ma, in my life!
Tonight we are to be honored with a dinner by Big Ma's close friend Maggie and tomorrow, for our final evening (I think...if it is Tuesday this must be...) we will celebrate Marlyse's birthday. Obviously we will need a vacation after our vacation!

La Rochelle, France...and the final day

I am waiting for a washing machine to become free having just been cleared by a British official to enter Heathrow tomorrw. Phil is just getting started - they do the passenger clearance procedure by alphabetical order so I went first. To me it is a mark of this cruise line that they try to make every official thing smoother and easier - and it succeeds. (Still, the only lousy thing is the coffee!)
Yesterday we were in La Rochelle, France which is a lovely old port town. Although it is quite a vacation spot with wonderful cafes and three actual ports, public gardens, and beaches, we took a tour into the country to what is called the 'Green Venice'. This is a series of small canals further interior where cattle is raised. The drive was beautiful, passing very old towns with small white houses. It reminded me of the movie 'Manon of the Spring'. The area was green and lush and many places had lovely gardens growing.
Once in the town of our destination, we took an hour long flat boat ride. The boats held about 7 to 10 passengers and were poled. The young man guiding our boat could not speak English. Phil translated back and forth for the boat and had his moment of glory. He did a fabulous job (though nobody gave him a tip afterward!) - everybody was quite impressed and Big Ma was very proud of him!
The canals are full of life: birds, fish, and some mammals (we did not actually see any of these) as well as various trees, etc. It was so quite and peaceful. When sediment sits on the bottom of the canal, methane is created. At one point the guides stir up the methane and light it. It is really interesting. They apparently tell children not to mess around in the canals and say the 'red hand' will come up and get them! It was a lovely day.
Prior to our final formal dinner on board the captain had a farewell party. Cocktails, music, and a presentation/speech. This cruise line is known for maintaining a formal culture and that was very much in evidence in the gowns and etc. seen last night. The meal was also fabulous. Our very rowdy table was, again, the last to leave the dining room! Another passenger passed us on her way out and remarked that we are laughing all the time.
Today we are packing (I would prefer to do that with clean clothes). We have an exhibit of the art made on the ship in which I am displaying the bowl I made. I also hope to get one more swim in the pool. Perhaps I will give my stomach a rest before travel tomorrow - on to Zurich! (I already know that we will be attending a couple of parties as well as seeing all of the family's favorite places). I also hope to get photos on here, finally! Bon Voyage.

Bilbao, Spain

Alas, yesterday I was really too sick with my cold to do anything but sleep (and eat...and eat...and eat!). I managed to go downstairs for lunch as it was the 'buffet' featuring all the best offerings of the entire cruise.
Let me explain. From December through April, Crystal Cruises offers a 'world cruise' which incorporates a number of various 'legs' covering a very large part of the world. Ann (aka Big Ma) has been part of the world cruise for 3 years. Phil and I joined for the final leg of the cruise although people go off and on at many ports. Those who travel for the entire world cruise become a family of sorts. They come to know each other quite well. We have been 'adopted' by the many friends made by Big Ma and by Marlyse who also joined the cruise for the first few weeks. Many of the activities we are participating in have been occurring for all these weeks.
The lunch buffet is the time when Crystal honors it's various chefs. Everything is quite amazing - ice scuptures, tables laden with baked goods, desserts, cheeses, meats, fish, pasta, and etc. To me the most outstanding items were the eggs prepared as penguins...and the dessert table which had maps painted on marzipan. The food not only is gorgeous, it tastes amazing as well. The only thing less than fabulous is the coffee (which I find very weird). I had been gaining weight slowly over the past few years but after this trip I am truly planning on really cutting back on calories and upping my exercise. I have been walking every day (except for yesterday when I did sleep most of the time) and I did swim a couple of days, however, we sit down to unbelievable feasts constantly...and last night was no exception. We ate at the sushi bar part of Nobu, the Japanese restaurant. Phil did most of the ordering. I am a newby to sushi and I find I don't like seaweed but I love mostly everything else!
After dinner Phil and I went to the evening entertainment which was a magic show. It was really really excellent although it was a pretty small audience.
Today our port was Bilbao, Spain. It is Basque country, noted for the Guggenheim Museum. Marlyse, Phil, and I took a tour arranged by the ship that was a walking tour with a 'tapas' lunch. (Food, once again!)
Again, this is a city that is so ancient and so lovely. There are 7 small streets that all lead into the city center where vehicles are only allowed until about 11 am - then it is all pedestrian. We saw the outside of the Guggenheim and the river front, then took a cable car to the old part of the city where we entered a church and walked the streets. The city was not long ago a very industrial, dirty site (apparently) with a dirty river/canal but it is all being cleaned and remodeled. We took a quick walk through the marketplace being revitalized as well. Our lunch took place at an outdoor cafe in a lovely city square, then it was a return on our bus to the ship where I was really exhausted and fell asleep!
Tomorrow is our final port of call in La Rochelle, France. We will have one sea day before ending up in Southampton, England, the end of the World Cruise. At the beginning of our vacation people were confused and worried about the impact of the volcano on air travel. We kept hearing reports about people stranded all over Europe. As we get closer to the end, things seem to be smoother. Of course, many of the other passengers have quite a bit of luggage having been on board for months. Also, the passengers tend to be older and more frail so travel is just more difficult.
I do want to add that as we travel, I am reading 'A People's History of the United States' by Howard Zinn. This does not give a very glowing view of the U.S. In fact, it is rather upsetting. It does give me an interesting perspective on the U.S. while traveling.
Our ship is getting ready to leave the port at this time...

our midway point

So...I could NOT avoid getting the cold Phil brought on board with him...and am eating dinner in our stateroom alone so as not to disturb the other guests! Actually, I am coughing up a storm and am trying to relax - it is sort of a relief to cough in private!

And yet, the pace has not quieted much...

Yesterday we awoke in Gibraltar where we spent half a day. Phil and I took a bus tour with a local guide - we went up to the top of the city on a gondola to see the rock and the gorgeous views of Spain and (almost) Africa. We walked from there along roads to St. Michael's caves. I did not know about the monkeys who inhabit the island - there are about 300 and they are all protected by the government. They tend to hang around where visitors buy snacks and will snatch anything they can. Later a woman on the cruise told a group of us that a baby monkey had bitten her! They are totally free and often do jump onto people's shoulders but we saw none of this. The cave itself was not unlike other caves I have been in - somehow I am happy inside caves!

Our guide loves the things that grow along the roads and was able to point out the various plants. It is quite similar to the vegetation of San Antonio and even reminds me of the area in that it is made of limestone and has a similar climate. We then went into some of the tunnels dug in the base of the rock for protection. We learned quite a bit of the history here.

The best part was when our guide (Moira) told us the silly things people have asked her - as the woman who asked her where she could find the rock! The rock, basically, IS Gibraltar! There is a platform for photographs where Moira told us all about the rock!

In the afternoon we were back on the ship, headed for Portugal. I completed my clay project and now have origami and my clay bowl in the room...and tomorrow I want to create a project using a new clay technique. More fun than doing the activities is meeting new friends! My clay 'partner-in-crime' is the mom of the head concierge on the ship. She is from Australia and we have really hit it off.

Today was a very special treat. We were met right off the ship in Lisbon by a dear friend of the Gut family who lived for a while in Zurich but is Portuguese. Her name is Patch Portugal (yes!) and she was accompanied by her boyfriend Georges and her daughter and son in law. We all (including Big Ma and Marlyse) went to a famous Lisbon cafe for coffee and pastry (and Portuguese coffee is quite excellent and strong). The pastry is a sort of custard in bread but totally amazing...then the family went on to do their own outings while Patch took us on a driving tour with various stops. Lisbon is very very hilly. The old section is filled with homes/apartments over shops, mostly quite narrow buildings and many made of tile. The colors are pastels: greens, blues, pinks, yellows. The streets are quite narrow and very much alive! Even many of the sidewalks are made of tile. At intersections there are small parks and many churches. We entered two of the churches to see the many periods of architecture, incredible paintings, and the detailed stained glass windows. Part of this city is quite new and the growth astounds even the residents. There are so many museums. The day was punctuated with lunch at a typical Portuguese restaurant where Georges, Patch's son, and George's son and wife and adorable grandson all joined us. They ordered various foods that are 'typical' - I fell in love with a rice dish with duck in it. We just tried everything they ordered. After a large meal (and we tasted wines and beers as well), there was the obligatory coffee and more pastries!

What is totally amazing is the command all these people have of English. I sat near the younger people (the better to enjoy 1 1/2 yr old Alfonso) and I identified the Spanish words I knew on the menu. They mainly spoke in English - Patch's children speak about 5 or more languages! They are all so bright and interested in others. We had a lively discussion about their impressions of America and some about American politics. I am quite impressed by how kind they are to us after the past 8+ years and what I had heard about the world's views on America. Of course they are very into American t.v. and culture. We discussed movies and found we had very similar interests there as well - we could have been anywhere in the U.S. having the same discussion!

Before Patch returned us to the ship, we briefly drove around the newer section of Lisbon...then we gave Patch a tour of the ship. She took her picture everywhere on board, threatening to post it on facebook to tease her colleagues about her 'leaving her job'. Patch teaches history and she really knows her stuff! This day will probably stand out for me on this cruise.

Phil and I love each place we see and would love to really go to each site and stay for a while...but Portugal really would be an amazing place to stay for more than a day. Plus, Patch's folks have a farm in the country and love company. Her dad makes olive oil and GRAPPA!!!

Tomorrow is our last sea day. There is supposed to be an 'exhibit' of the clay works as well as a final class. Also, I will probably take one more bridge lesson although Phil has quickly surpassed me and gone on to the next level of class! He already knew some games related to bridge so that is a head start. I am just hoping I don't cough my way around the entire day!

Then we have 2 more stops along the route - and we have already signed up for tours through the ship.

We also are looking at next year's schedule and trying to decide which leg we might join! They will probably be returning to Portugal however we were told Norway is amazing - and I have been fascinated by that country since doing a report in 3rd or 4th grade!

Sorry, still have not posted photos. I am also going to be relying on the photos others have taken as today our camera batteries died in the middle of the day. (I give Phil the camera and that is what happens!)

Will post again asap!

Bar The Lona

After our second day in Italy we had a 'sea day' - we were in transit the entire day. There is so much to do while at sea - beyond the pool and the decks, there are lessons and sports, etc. all day long. I slept late, then went for a swim and had lunch. In the afternoon I went to a ceramics class, then ran off to a bridge lesson! I did not know how to play bridge but some of our companions were having a private lesson and invited us (Phil and I) to watch. We did have a very short introduction to the game but were given the recommendation to return on the next sea day to take a real lesson. It seems like it is a lot of fun.
Yesterday we woke up in Barcelona (see pronounciation above!). We took a shuttle bus to the area where they have the 'on and off' bus and bought a 2-day pass. Our goal was the major museums/sites. The bus actually gives a general tour of the city but one can get off to spend time at a site, then return to the bus at any time (or any site). Along with the bus fare you get a coupon book which gives discounts at various places. The food discounts - you will be so impressed to hear - were at the following restaurants: McDonald's, KFC, and Subway. I had to go across the world to get this!!!
The weather was mostly sunny but cool and we rode on the open top of the bus to get a view of the extraordinary architecture of the city. It is truly magnificent and a place we will have to visit at another time with a some time to spend! We spent the morning at the Picasso museum, the afternoon at the Miro museum. The Picasso was truly excellent as it definitely demonstrated his life and how his work progressed...the Miro was okay - just not as impressive a body of work as we thought.
Today Marlyse joined Phil and I and we again took the on and off bus to see the sites related to Gaudi! The Segura Familia - the church that was his life's work - is quite interesting as a work in progress and seems to be more about models than about the church...however, the Parc Guell, though small, is truly something to see. We almost ran through the place so I did not get a photo of the people dressed as characters in the center where visitors were having their pictures taken...
Now I have taken so many pictures but still haven't had the time to figure out how to post them etc.
Ah - last night we had a small group together on the ship at the Italian restaurant and it was terrific.
Today we had a cocktail party in Ann's stateroom (Phil's mom and our hostess) in honor of our new friend (and dinner partner) Dick's birthday. This occurred as we set sail. As the ship leaves a port the captain plays a recording of 'What a Wonderful world'. Tonight we are eating at the Japanese restaurant. These eateries have amazing reputations - though all the food on board is really excellent. I feel I am getting spoiled! Marlyse (who has joined her mom before) says it is hard to remember once you get home that you have to clean up after yourself! Really, the guests are so spoiled on board.
We are quickly making many new friends. The sea day was our first formal night. I met a gentleman from San Antonio and had much to discuss in common! People are there to be sociable and are from many different backgrounds, have been to so many places, and share freely.
Tomorrow we have our next sea day and i am hoping in between my classes and swimming to put up some photos! Bon Voyage!

I'm overwhelmed!!!

The volcano in Iceland caused Heathrow and other airports to close...we flew out of Boston on Swiss Air - to Zurich and then on to Rome - and were one of the last flights out before Zurich had to close down!

Oh my - the flight to Zurich was amazing. We were in business class and were able to lie down. The food was fabulous. If I had not been so excited, I would have been able to sleep!

And finally we were in Rome. It suddenly hit me how delighted I was to be seeing Marlyse again. We had a long wait for baggage in the airport, then a long ride to the city. I remembered Rome (the only city until London where I had been in my teens) as an amazing combination of the new and the ancient. It was more gorgeous than I remembered! We got washed up at the Hotel Victoria and went out for a walk with Marlyse - we hit the ground running! First we went across the street from our hotel where there is a huge city park - the Borghese Gardens (thank you Phil). There are formal gardens in the center and they were blooming. Then we went to the Via Veneto and shopping area. The orange trees lined the streets - in bloom with fruit and flowers and smell - just glorious. It is not unlike NYC with all sorts of people...but you are walking amidst ancient buildings, amazing sculptures, etc.!

I finally met Marlyse's husband, Phil's brother in law Ludy who arranged our stay at this beautiful old hotel! It was an immediate connection and we began laughing right away.

We also soon met Jane, a woman who had met Marlyse and Ann (Phil's mom) on the cruise and was returning for the final leg. Ludy found a restaurant for us to dine casually and we spent the first of what I am sure will be many nights around the table with amazing food and wine and laughter.

We were exhausted and slept well that night although not long enough as we had to get up and drive to the ship embarkation port. Still we had the opportunity to linger over breakfast and visit further with Jane and Marlyse preparing us to meet some of the personalities on the cruise...

Finally we got to the ship and were able to board early, giving us a chance to walk around, sit by the pool, and meet a few people. Ludy was also able to stay with us for the afternoon. Then he left to drive on to Livorno - our first stop - while we had our first dinner in the main dining room. The people at our table are a friendly, lively bunch and we felt so welcomed so quickly. They tend to be one of the last tables to leave the dining room - and they are already at the second seating. By the time we finished with our meal (fantastic), we were ready for bed.

So now we have our 'home' at sea and it is very comfortable...and yet I was up reading at 3:00 am - not able to settle down yet! I did fall asleep but had to awaken with an alarm as we were to meet Ludy for a day in Tuscany! I NEVER imagined I would ever get there in my life - and here we were. The drive is breath=taking - very green and lush with more and more vineyards as we approached the town where we had a reservation for lunch. This town (don't have the spelling right now) is built on a hill and all the buildings are ancient. You can see where the stone doorways were at some point. Shops line the streets and it seems like one continuous building. The restaurant specializes in the 'slow food' concept with everything totally fresh and prepared on site. Only Phil actually ordered a main course...everything was superb. We all seem to be comfortable eating from each other's plates to try things and we try everything! I believe Ludy has the most exotic appetite (for me). And he has been so wonderful schlepping us all over and making all these arrangements. Best of all, it is being with family!

So we returned to our ship and are now ready for a party in the casual dining room as we leave Italy for Spain! I still cannot believe this is me and I am here! I realize I am not even explaining these experiences as clearly as I had hoped. We have been taking photos - all of us - and later Phil will download them so I can put them up.

I just feel so lucky and so blessed. Not the least, I am so happy to be with Phil.

Two items: packing is really not fun but I tried not to obsess! Limited my colors to 3 and tried to cover warmer and colder options. At the last minute Phil decided to change the bag he was using. We are well within the weight limit but my bag is about 1/2 my size and I really hope I don't have to lug it too much!
Second, there was a volcano in Iceland that appears to be causing some disturbance in the Northern European skies. Phil called Swiss Air to check about this twice and all seems to be fine. I also hope it doesn't make for very cold weather during our travels.
I cannot believe that I cleaned the entire apartment and went for a swim already today - my hope is that I am exhausted enough to combat my excitement so that I can sleep on the plane. I did not get melatonin or anything like that to take for jet lag...I am hoping that a glass of wine with dinner, being exhausted, and having my back up of PM pain relievers is enough to help me sleep.
So, my next post will be from another country!

OOOh! I have 2 'followers'! Thanks. We leave in about 24 hours...and the tension mounts! Almost all our preparations are complete!

The countdown has begun! We leave on Thursday evening for Rome. We will be flying Swiss Air and I am quite excited as it is supposed to be a really nice airline. Packing has begun as well as attending to the details that must be seen to when you will be away from home for 3 weeks. Alas, our houseplants may not make it! Perhaps we will find someone to take them in? It just seems wrong to let them die...
We will be stopping in ports in Italy, Spain, Portugal, and France before ending up in London. I have been in Rome and London before (a ZILLION years ago!) but I had a wonderful time there before. I am especially excited to be spending the first of what will surely be many trips to Zurich following the cruise.
I am quite a happy camper!

Start Up

Hi everybody!

At the end of last year I began a new phase of my life: moving back to Massachusetts, retiring, and sharing my life with a wonderful partner, Philippe Gut. Phil's mom lives in Zurich and enjoys a cruise during the winter months. This year Phil and I will be joining her on the last leg of the cruise through Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, and London. We will also spend a week with Ann in Zurich. Phil's adorable sister Marlyse will be on the cruise as well.

I am hoping to share my experiences and thoughts along the way on this big adventure! Seize the day!

Love, me